Southwold Harbour, “the Harbour Inn”, an Adnams “real ale” Pub, excellent Fish Pie and a Pint of Ghost Ship

Southwold is on the east coast of England, in the county of Suffolk. The North Sea gently laps on the beach, at least it did on the day in late July when we visited. However on 31st January 1953, part of the Dutch “Watersnoodramp” , a storm surge in the North Sea killed some 2000 people, of these 329 deaths were recorded on the East Coast of the UK. The flooding the result of a combination of high tides and a European windstorm hit the English, Dutch and Belgian coasts, many lives were also lost at sea. For Southwold, the town and much of the surrounding coastline was seriously inundated, the “tide mark” on The Harbour Inn exterior wall in the pic indicates the extent.

I have to disclose that I was with my parents at the time of the 1953 Flood, close by but up in Langdon Hills, Essex, age 1 and 10 days, blissfully unaware of the event. Subsequently my Geography education included the River Thames Flood Barrage, one at Hull on the River Humber and the Dutch Delta Flood Protection Scheme. Apparently the sea flooded up to 5.6metres above mean sea level, and swallowed so much of the very flat coastlines on both sides on the N Sea.

Just to give one an idea of the 1953 flood level
Our luncheon stop at Southwold Harbour, “the lower bar is prone to flooding” – not whilst we were there, it was half tide and going down.

It was a quiet sunny Saturday when we visited, a nice SE breeze off the sea and the tide going down revealing the mudflats made for a pleasant scene. This coastline is not an easy one for boaties as the harbours are usually just narrow river mouths, and the drift down the coast of sand and debris, creates treacherous bars and sandbanks at the entrances to these harbours. Southwold Harbour sees the River Blythe, spill out into the North Sea and as the pic of the narrow entrance shows, calmish seas are a prerequisite for entering or exiting.

Harbour moorings, boats doubling up.
Fishing boats,spruced up and black painted cabins for days by the beach.
Fish & Chips and much more availablefromanumber of eating places by the Harbour.
With a muddle foreshore and tide rise and fall, wooden walkways are a bonus for boaties
Ferry across the river Blyth, by row boat or engine
Narrow reinforced harbour entrance

Southwold is split into two, by about a km of coast. The harbour and river Blyth where there are some moorings, a few small fishing boats, a pub and a few fish restaurants and then the town itself north up the coast slightly elevated and embodied by the Lighthouse that stands proudly in the town. Busy with holidaymakers and day tourists, clearly there is much Airbnb activity, out of season, like many tourist destinations, Southwold would be quiet.

Southwold has another claim to fame, which is the local independent brewer, Adnams. Founded in 1872, it is now a brewer, cider maker and distiller. The Campaign for Real Ale – CAMRA- that has lead the charge in the UK since the 1970s for “real beer”, at a time when dreadful beers like Watneys Red Barrel and Double Diamond were being peddled via “tied pubs”. Independent brewers like Adnams took up the challenge and have thrived, and today embrace with excellent Non Alcoholic beers too.

Southwold Lighthouse and hydrangea display
Adnams Brewery at Southwold
Nearest Pub to the Brewery, just across the road
Hollyhocksdisolay reminds us of Denmark
Classy looking residentialbuildings
How many airbnbs have a “ships figurehead” as a distinguishing feature?
Lovely Sandy beach
Beach Huts, iconic on the E Coast of England, usually no toilets, possibly water only from a stand pipe, maybe no power, still much loved.
Walk around the Coast with KC3

Southwold is a little of the beaten track, which probably adds to its charm. Known for its lighthouse and brewery, it does have a lovely beach, thus suffers only from the fact that the N Sea is far from an ideal place to go for a dip. Brightly coloured beach cabins are available for weekly rental up to about NZ$1000, or for sale for about NZ$200,000.

But we had a lovely time in Southwold, an excellent lunch, a good walk and explore, with two of the three in the car on the way home asleep, lulled by the fresh sea air and warm sunshine. A great day out, and not a bad pint of beer – non alcoholic!