2023 – Denmark – Part 1 – We are Sailing -1000+ Islands, Warships in Churches ………

We came to Denmark because my brother and sister in law were sailing their yacht around the Baltic, and had invited us to join them for a week exploring the islands to the south of the big island of Funen. Then we added a few days in Copenhagen on the island of Zeeland to finish off the trip.

But lets first explain a bit about Denmark, as we did not know too much about the country, before we arrived. Denmark is about 66% of the area of the UK, & 60% of the area of NZ. Population of just under 6m, compared to the UK at 67m and NZ at 5.5m. The mainland – Jutland – is attached & to the north of Germany and then everything else is either very big islands – Funen and Zeeland, or much smaller to tiny islands numbering well over a 1000. And then there are the Faroe Islands and Greenland , but thats another story, although they are all Danish.

We flew into Billund on Jutland, a place we had never heard of until we were checking out RyanAir flights, and then we found it was the “home of Lego”, a massive Lego Resort and destination for many of the families on our flight. From there a short bus ride took us to Vejle and our ship, home for the next week.

Vejle is on the east coast of Jutland and at the head of a fjord, a small port but with some amazing and very modern buildings – “Fjordenhus”” – paid for by the “Lego family” and this amazing “Wave of Apartments”. Everywhere we travelled one would see, half timbered 16th century preserved dwellings and then some really stunning up to the minute architecture – and lots & lots of brick.

So our home for the week, a 34 foot sailing yacht that my brother and sister in law had sailed across the North Sea from Harwich. Arriving in Holland, they sailed & occasionally motored via the Ijsselmeer, the Kiel Canal and into the Baltic.

Northern Europe has not had the “heat waves” of the South, but we had a week of mild weather, occasional showers and steady but not too strong winds, ideal for great sailing. Denmark has “3 Belts – Straits” – Lillebaelt, Oresund and the Great Belt that drain and connect the Baltic Sea to the Kattegat which drains up to the North Sea and Atlantic. We joined the yacht at Veije and sailed east down the fjord , had our first night at a pretty marina at Brejyning , (great restaurant on the dockside), and out into the Lillebaelt ( Little Belt) which itself separates the mainland of Jutland from the island of Funen and all its islands.

Our next destination was Mittelfart, on the western side of the island of Funen, itself an old ferry crossing , twin bridges doing that job today for road and rail. A history that included the harvesting of porpoises for their blubber, individual fishing cottages having their own blubber cauldrons cooking down the raw material into oil for lamps and many other uses. Today, a pretty town, excellent – bakery, wet fish shop, butchers and supermarket and really pretty to walk around with lovely views of the Lillaebelt.

A great walk around the headland with beautiful beech and fir forest, plus a mansion en route. Passing through the town of Mittelfart , we pop into the Church, beautiful patterns of brick, which we see regularly. Inside, quite plain, white, lovely timbered seating , lots of light and in the centre of the nave Two Model Warships are hanging – Why?? Research required, when time permits. On leaving the Church two massive whale jaw bones adorn the exit door evidence of earlier endeavours.

We had two nights at Mittelfart, even had a quick dip swim in the sea – yes it was very cold – but a super clean marina as was everywhere we went to around Denmark.

An early start sees us sailing southwards down the Lillebaelt for Baago a tiny – 6.5sq.km- island . Baago has a high point of just 8 metres above sea level, 25 residents, a few houses, couple of farms, fields of cereals, a campsite and a marina at the south end of the island next door to a lighthouse. A bright red and white ferry (front and rear loading) chugs the 30 minutes between the island and the nearest port of Assens on the big island of Funen.

Mooring sorted in the marina, we head off on a walk to explore the island heading to the centre – farm buildings, a cross roads of houses and a Church – Baago Kirke! Its very peaceful, the fields of wheat & barley sway in the breeze, winter may be wet, cold and windy, but summer in late July is lovely. The farms have big grain stores and massive storage barns for hay, perhaps – but apart from a few sheep, no other animals can be seen. One of the 25 residents comes by driving a very modern tractor and another is on his bicycle having just left the Church – our next stop to investigate – we love a good church!

And what a surprise on entering a simple interior, blue/gray painted seating and hanging between two light chandeliers a model Warship – “The Fredericus Quartus”- launched in 1699 , a 110 gun Danish East Indiaman ship, that 30 years later would founder in a storm. We head back to the marina and on the way meet up with the “resident on his bicycle” – so we flag him down and he manages to stop without falling off his bike, just. We introduce ourselves – “we are from New Zealand- not the Old Zeeland” – yes he gets that, and we ask about the “warship in the Kirke”.

He explains and further googling helps explain that these “model ships” are – “Votive Ships” – and pre Christianity in origin , models of ships were offered to the Gods to help the safe voyage and return of a ship. It seems that this practice of Votive Ships is quite common throughout N Europe and especially so in Denmark. It certainly sparked our interest, something very unusual.

Having said goodbye to our “Baago cyclist resident”, within a 100 metres we are stopped again by a small but so pretty Russian Orthodox Church – a reminder that the Baltic is shared by the East and West!!

An early morning wander to the 19th century lighthouse, precedes a short crossing from Baago to Assens, to explore this ferry port too. But as we enter the port we see the magnificent Training ship “Danmark’ – what a sight as she dominates every view. Assens is certainly an agricultural centre, big grain stores by the port and a former sugar beet factory is now the local Council offices – but the old chimney stands proud above the town. The inner town is pretty, old buildings well preserved and with the strong colour schemes we have come to love. But, “The “Danmark” is the draw card and we choose a restaurant for supper, just across from her mooring, and watch the cadets passing out dinner.

Well its our last sailing day of this trip, the longest sail and the weather looks a bit mixed, decent wind but squally rain showers forecast. Another early start to ensure that we reach our destination of Faaborg in good time to find a decent mooring berth for the night. Squally showers did eventuate, the cockpit cover is perfect for the crew to keep dry, but younger brother and helmsman is on the wheel, in the rain, stoic and reliable as ever! Faaborg, another ferry port – a great linkage of ferries to the islands. A couple of ferries we meet crossing our route and we make sure to keep well away from them! Our marina berth is right in heart of the old town, that is Faaborg!! Well done the crew, time for a beer!!

Next stop Copenhagen ………………..