2019- Italy – Northern Sardinia – Costa Smeralda – bought by the Aga Khan – well a bit of it …..

I came, I saw and I bought…..

The Aga Khan is the leader of 15 million Ismaili Moslems, and in the 1960s whilst passing by on his yacht, saw and then purchased a chunk of the NE corner of Sardinia. He next built a resort for the very rich and famous at Porto Cuervo, see second pic immediately above. When we visited it was end of season, early October, and most of the flash yachts plus all the rich & famous had left.

The area is known as the Costa Smeralda, it’s about a 45 minute drive from Olbia International Airport, boasts white sandy beaches and blue azure sea. We decided to visit in early October, out of season, still stunningly beautiful and easy to see why it is a tourist Mecca.

The actual NE corner of Sardinia is Capo Ferro with its multiple lighthouses, see separate pic top above, the Island of Corsica is in the background, and the views were stunning. No guardrails, so hang on to hats and children.

Touring the Costa Smeralda we came across a number of resorts as we explored this top end of Sardinia, none terribly new, maybe 20-50 years old and they all blend in really well with the terrain – see third pic above. You need to look closely to distinguish the villas from the rocks and vegetation. Out of season, with few residents, these resorts seemed open to anyone so we drove into a few and down to their private beaches and even used their restaurants, where open.

Cannigione & La Maddalena

We had chosen an AirBNB apartment in Cannigione, a small modern town at the foot of the Golfo Di Arzachena with a good range of restaurants, shops and a weekly village market. Cannigione turned out to be an excellent centre for touring the north, super swimming beach in the town, in fact on our doorstep.

It was also a good base for day boat trips to the northern islands around Sardinia and in particular La Maddalena, see pics below. An hours drive to the north west and one finds a stunning pink granite coastline which extends round with wonderful weathered rocks to ferry port of Palau. One particular rocky outcrop “ The Bear – Orsa”, being the most famous, cost €3 to clamber up to, but well worth it for the views, and the rock is beautiful to touch.

Across Sardinia at all of the beaches, a real civic focus on cleanliness with daily beach rubbish collection and separation of recyclables. Interestingly also specific smoking areas at beaches provided. Must admit that the cities do not always live up to the same aspirations, but it’s a great vision that other green minded communities could do well to adopt.

Isola Rossa and Costa Paradiso

About an hours drive west from Cannigione on the rugged north west corner of Sardinia is the Isola Rossa and Costa Paradiso. Again there are a number of resorts blending into the hillside, but the pink granite rocky coast line, contrasting sea and beaches are a magnificent vista to enjoy at your leisure.

With easy access to Olbia International Airport and the Ferry Terminal at Olbia port, it’s not surprising that tourists flock to the Costa Smeralda and this northern end of Sardinia. The hotels are open from Easter to mid/late October and in the high season it would be very busy. But if you can choose to visit away from school holidays in particular then go for it. This area is different to other parts of Sardinia, inevitably a bit more commercialised and pricey, but charming and beautiful none the less. We enjoyed our visit very much.