Greece – 2019 – Alonissos – Northern Sporades

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In the beginning, 1978…….

It was a Russian, selling ammunition to the Saudi Arabians, his American wife and some Irish friends that lead us to buy an old house on an earthquake hit island in the Aegean Sea in 1978.

Let me explain. In mid 1977 I was working for the Norwich Union ( NU) Insurance Group in Leeds, West Yorkshire, England and Sue was a Physical Education Teacher also in Leeds. We decided to change all of that and to head off on a big adventure to work for NU and their Arab partners Yusuf Bin Ahmed Kanoo, in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. In the end we were in Jeddah for about 4 and a half years.

So in early 1978 we were up in Riyadh with our Irish friends for a weekend and met a lovely couple, Wadim ( Russian ammo seller), and his wife Pat . Over dinner they both spent time sharing the beauty of an island in the Aegean, Alonissos. They had a holiday home there and we thought , why not, let’s call in there on our way to the U.K. on our next leave.

Later in 1978 we visited , fell in love with the island of Alonissos and bought the house top left in the picture gallery below. More on the island a little later but suffice to say, the house is in the Old Village of Hora, sitting on the top of the southern end of the island of Alonissos since time immemorial.

To give some context, in 1965 there was an earthquake impacting the Old Village, many properties were very badly damaged, some not so but the Greek Government subsequently built new housing down at the Alonissos Port of Patitiri . Majority of villagers moved to Patitiri and by the 1970s a few people like us were buying up the old houses and creating holiday homes.

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1978 to 2019 – Is it time for our return to Alonissos?

From 1978 to 1981 , often via “ telex – remember that”, we project managed renovation and extension of the old house, and equally extended our family as the pics above demonstrate. Along the way between 1978 and the last time we visited Alonissos in 1991 we had many many happy holidays on Alonnisos making great friends there. We were also able to get friends and family members to holiday there too and in so doing spread the magic that is the island of Alonissos.

But in 1995 with us very committed as Kiwi Citizens, with teenagers in Auckland, we decided to part with our Alonissos house. So now in 2019 and in retirement we have the time to return to Alonissos. Will we like it after the last 28 years?? Will we be disappointed by the inevitable developments on the island? It’s time to find out.

Alonissos 2019- Where is it and how to get there?

The Northern Sporades lie north east of Athens and mainland Greece. Of these islands the most well known may be Skopelos which is the “ Mama Mia Movie” island. But it’s Skiathos that has the only airport in the group with international charter flights from the U.K. & Germany in particular plus domestic regional flights into Athens.

The islands are also well connected to the Greek mainland by traditional ferries , “ quick cats and hydrofoils”, through the ports of Volos , Kymi and Aghios Constantinou .

In late August 2019, we flew to Skiathos with Thos Cook Airlines from London Gatwick, 08.25 Departure. It was a 3 + hour flight, and from Skiathos Airport a mere ten minute Formula 1 style taxi ride to Skiathos Port. From there we collected our pre on line booked ferry tickets from the Ferry Office.

Phew, it was time for a beer, a fruit crepe and ice cream before our Quik Cat arrived for our 2 hour voyage to Alonissos.

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Falling in love again

It’s a 30 minute Quik Cat ferry ride from Skopelos Port to the Port of Patitiri on Alonissos. As the ferry rounds the southern end of Alonissos the Old Village, Hora, comes into view standing above the rest of the island. It’s a view that impresses at first viewing and for us stirs emotion at subsequent views it’s become a homecoming !

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Let’s Show you Alonissos from North to South

When we first visited Alonissos in 1978 the road network was mainly bumpy dirt tracks except around Patitiri, the Port. The island post earthquake, had also not recovered from the mid 1950s phylloxera that decimated the previous thriving wine making.

But in 2019 the roads are well developed and hard surfaced, allowing us to explore the island in a way it was tough to do previously.

At the North end of the island it’s more remote, very rural, goat herds, olive tree groves and small fishing ports. Alonissos and it’s neighbouring island Peristera have a Marine Sanctuary which protects rare species and allows a tourist diving industry to develop. Similarly the beaches and bays on the eastern flank offer sheltered moorings to visiting yachts and great tavernas & swimming for all visitors.

Further south around Patitiri, Votse and Resume , modest development has occurred, new low rise hotels and “ rooms to rent”, even an excellent Museum. Overall there is evidence of some prosperity and talking to the locals they are clearly proud of what they have achieved in the last 30 years. And they should be, they recognise their heritage, the value in their fishing, their olive trees and critically the tourist. It’s a good balance and wonderful to see. The following pics run north to south:-

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Old Alonissos Village

Visiting, staying, and enjoying the Old Village is a big tourist draw card for Alonissos. It does take a bit of effort to get to the island, but many tourists make the trip just to spend a few hours exploring the Old Village, it’s fascinating houses, narrow steps and streets.

But whilst times may change the Alonissos views, the dawns, morning swims, sunsets and the island peace are unchanged and here are some pics to share that.

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Goodbye to Alonissos for 2019- back in 2020 we hope…..

Previously on visits to Alonissos our focus was on our young growing family, a holiday home, not to mention the Mebea we shared ( see top pic gallery above) with neighbours that was a bit unpredictable. So not heaps of time for Sue and myself for us.

So in 2019, we did what we wanted and with the new roading saw much more of the island than we had before. But one thing we had not done in all our years of multiple visits was to clamber to the top of the hill at the southern end of Alonissos to watch the sunset across the Aegean and over the island of Skopelos.

Here are a few pictures of that sunset. There is one picture in the gallery that may look like a blank sky. If you look closely and open it you will see about 4 black dots that do reveal themselves ( take my word for it) as Eleonora Falcons. They nest on the cliffs of Alonissos when they arrive from Africa and are pretty rare. We had the most stunning aerial display one could hope for. The Falcons called- we saw 5 in all , wheeled, swooped and two made a duo vertical dive at an amazing speed- we were privileged!!

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And we will come back to Alonissos, we have fallen in love again, you see.