2022 Update on 2018 visit – France – Corsica – St Florent and Oletta, Nonza and Patrimonio

The Isle of Corsica is very much a part of France, positioned as it is in the Mediterranean, about an hours flight south of Marseille. Yet its nearest neighbourly landmass is the Island of Sardinia, a part of Italy but demonstrating the close historical links of Corsica with Italy and actually Genoa that go back to the 12th century. With all this history behind it, Corsica has a very clear identity and its own language.

Today the road signs for each Corsican town are shown in French and Corsican, with the former often defaced by spray paint and or bullet holes!!!

We had decided to spend two weeks in July 2018 exploring the north west quadrant of Corsica, based on two centres, St Florent and then Lumio near Calvi. From our first day in Corsica we were entranced by it and as the two weeks went by the experience just got better and better. In September 2022 we visited again for a week to St Florent and this time with our son Mike, daughter in law, Christina and granddaughter Amelie Grace.

Corsica is a stunning island, views, mountains, beaches, people – but its scruffy and poor, in many ways quite unlike the mainland. Being so dependent upon tourism, these last two years have been devastating for the islanders and in 2022 it’s definetly in recovery mode.

St Florent & Oletta

This time Sept 2022, we stayed in an excellent Airbnb villa, about a kilometre outside of St Florent in the village of Olleta. Oletta is a long strip of a village, our villa was at the St Florent ie beach end, with its own swimming pool and a very handy LeClerc supermarket and hairdressers just a few hundred metres away.

St Florent is a small fishing port, with a much expanded marina, since our last visit and a harbour side walk of restaurants leading to the sea wall. We had a number of great lunchtime meals in restaurants beside the marina with a promenade before and after the meal.

One thing that is a bit limited, is car parking. The tip in 2018 and again in 2022, was to use the free car park at the rear of the Spar Supermarket, dusty and bumpy ( Wobbly says Amelie) but it worked well for us.

Nonza

The road north to Nonza from St Florent, heads through countryside, below Patrimonio, around several beaches and then hangs and twists on the cliff side itself. At our time of visiting, at one point coastal erosion required a single lane 5kmh Bailey Bridge, which we were relieved to get across, looking at the state of the rocky surround.

Nonza had strategic importance being so well placed to see invading pirates, with views to signal towers around the St Florent Bay and further. An ideal wander and explore historical village, there is so much packed into Nonza. It’s “ dangerous asbestos beach”, to the north – look at from above, but leave! The Paoline Tower affords stunning views and the pretty and very colourful St Julie Church, all well worth spending time over.

Patrimonio

Patrimonio is set up the hill above the coastal road, and we were out for an early evening drive, wondering about what to eat. We drove through Patrimonio, found a Pizza Restaurant, decided on “ takeaways”, with a glass of wine whilst we waited, and enjoyed the views.

Great Pizza!! Great Views and lovely Corsican rose and local red wine.

St Florent – Lotu Beach and Saleccia

In 2018 looking for a day excursion that had “ beach, views and walk”, we were recommended to take the short boat trip to Lotu Beach, a 45 minute hike to Saleccia beach, and then return hike and boat trip.

This trip was our first real introduction to Corsica’s soft whiter than white sand, and turquoise sea. Saleccia beach was simply stunning . The boat trip from St Florent to Lotu, was quick and fun with great views. The hike from Lotu to Saleccia was interesting as the route was not always obvious, and there were route options , and in fact for the return we opted for a 4WD taxi return.

In 2022 with young Amelie in tow, we just went to Lotu on the ferry boat and enjoyed our time on the beach there.

As a final note from Corsica, we flew in and out of Bastia Airport, which is a great small airport with lovely new clean public showers and toilets, excellent tea, coffee and croissants first thing in the morning too!! A bientot……..