2019- USA – New Orleans – NOLA

Mid June 2019 and it’s hot, steamy and a bit airless here in NOLA, New Orleans , Louisiana, 31c but feels like 36c in the mid afternoon. We flew in to NOLA from Houston, post our overnight flight from Auckland c/o excellent Air New Zealand, so its the first real stop on our 2019 Northern Tour. On the short flight to NOLA from Houston one is immediately struck by how flat this whole Mississippi Delta area is, and how massive the river itself as it drains much of the north- east and eastern continental USA.

Mid June in NOLA is the “ low tourist season”!! In fact according to our waitress on our first evening, the “ low season is from June through September” – it’s too hot and humid!!!

Mississippi River Info

There are 7.489 gallons of water in a cubic foot. One cubic foot of water weighs 62.4 pounds. A 48 foot semi-truck trailer is a 3,600 cubic foot container.

At New Orleans the equivalent of 166 semi-truck trailers of water flow past Algiers Point each second as the Mississippi drains 40% of the continental US & Canada , from its source up in Minnesota down to the Gulf of Mexico.

NOLA – Nightlife

We stayed in the Bourbon Orleans Hotel, on Orleans Street in the French Quarter of NOLA. Around one corner was the Church St Louis and on the other corner, Bourbon Street – wall to wall bars, restaurants, live music everywhere and at night throngs of party goers.

Whilst we found some Jazz being played around Bourbon Street, apparently the traditional jazz clubs have moved over to Frenchmen Street which is at the other end of Royal Street, in itself a lovely wandering area. But NOLA is inextricably linked to Jazz, Louis Armstrong, Fats Domino – with statues to celebrate them, and the streets are host to performing buskers with varying degrees of ability.

Out and About in NOLA – Walking Tours , Ferry across the Mississippi and Algiers Point

We had three nights and two days only to see a bit of NOLA and focussed on the French Quarter, the Mississippi River and their history to get a good sense of the place.

We enjoy getting around a new destination on foot and on our first day in NOLA took a Walking Tour of the French Quarter . Over two hours – US$18 per each of us seniors – great information – highly knowledgeable tour guide met at Cafe Beignet on Bourbon at 10.30am. Critically as the temperature soared, our tour guide was able to take us through a number of “ air conditioned” establishments -perfect!! These included the famous Brennan’s Hotel – Brennan family seem to own a number of establishments in the area eg Red Fish. We called into Napoleons – now a bar restaurant but apparently the top two floors of the premises were set up for Napoleon after a pirate ship had been able to spirit him off the island of St Helena – he died before the “ pirate rescue”. – A Firearms Antiques establishment on Royal Street that we trooped into and out of behind our “ character tour lady”, fascinating Civil War memorabilia for sale.

Highly recommend these historical Walking Tours, not sure about the “ Haunted Tours”, but if you are into that, then go for them too.

Ferry across the Mississippi & Nola transport

We were advised that the best and cheapest way to see the Mississippi was to take the Ferry across to Algiers Point, as opposed to a two hour trip on the Paddle Steamer. US$1 per senior each way and a ten minute ride, ideal!!

Along the way one gains a sense of the scale of the river, the size of ocean going craft using it and the levees which keep its potential inundation at bay. All elements overpowering impressive, unlike the down town CBD that is the American contribution to New Orleans, which is highly forgettable including a twenty odd storey tower built in 1998, and never occupied due to toxic mould!! Now being renovated, what a waste.

Algiers Point

On the opposite bank of the Mississipi to NOLA is the small township of Algiers Point, now a commuter township, it has been a shipyard, slave storage and more, but today is home to enchanting weather board housing and the odd very welcome air conditioned cafe.

We had a very pleasant morning trip over the Mississippi, a walk around Algiers Point + a stop for refreshment and return.

Nola Street Car Transport and Royal Road

As befits a historical site such as New Orleans, the Street Cars are a great way to get about. US$1.25 per trip or US$3 for a Day Pass, they are fun and highly practical. From our return ferry from Algiers Point, we took the Street Car up to Frenchman’s Market then walked through along Royal Road and back to our Hotel in the Frenchmen’s Quarter. Fantastic architecture on show at every intersection.

Eating Out in NOLA

It’s fair to say that we have fallen in love with Louisiana food, the gumbo, the shrimp, the fish of all shapes and sizes, the oysters and it goes on and on!!

Arriving at about 8pm on our first evening, we thought we would catch a snack at the hotel but nothing doing, so we were told to go across the road, a local bar and restaurant. Just perfect, rich powerful gumbo soup – died and gone to heaven – crab cakes – amazing and shrimp ( aka big prawns) in a stunning brown beer sauce. Chased down with a local NOLA IPA for me, excellent, and an equally excellent cocktail for Sue.

Local craft beers are a real eye opener , ie totally excellent, compared to some of the “ big brands” which are poor by comparison.

The Red Fish is a big bustling place, but excellent service and superb fish, very enjoyable. There are eating places everywhere, one is very spoilt for choice.